Care & maintenance

Looked after properly, this outlasts all of us.

Solid hardwood does not need much. It needs the right cloth, a coaster, and a room that is not desert-dry in February. Here is everything, by material.

The short version

Four things that matter most

If you only remember four rules, make them these. Everything below is detail.

Wipe spills nowNot later. Water left standing is what causes rings and lifted finish. A dry cloth is all it takes.
Use coasters & trivetsHeat and moisture are what damage a finish. A hot pan set straight down will leave a mark on any table, at any price.
35–55% humidityWood moves with the air around it. Keeping your home in this range is the single best thing you can do for it.
No harsh cleanersNo ammonia, no abrasives, no oil soaps, no furniture polish. A soft cloth, lightly damp, does the job.
By material

Care for every surface we build with

Tap a material for its full routine. If your piece combines several — a wood top on a steel base, say — follow both.

Wood
  • Clean with a soft, dry or lightly damp cloth
  • Wipe spills immediately to prevent staining
  • Use coasters, trivets or protective pads against heat marks and water rings
  • Felt pads under lamps, vases and anything else that lives on the surface
  • No abrasive cleaners, oil-based products, waxes, ammonia or chemical cleaners
  • No furniture polish — it builds up and dulls a catalyzed finish

Solid wood is a natural material. Color deepens and grain shifts over the years, particularly in walnut and cherry. That is the wood behaving as it should, not a defect.

Metal — steel, iron, aluminum
  • Clean with a soft, dry or damp cloth
  • Inspect and tighten hardware periodically
  • Use coasters and pads against heat and moisture
  • Wipe spills promptly to prevent staining or corrosion
  • No abrasive pads, harsh chemicals or oil-based cleaners
Leather
  • Vacuum surface debris with a soft brush or hose attachment
  • Clean with a microfiber cloth lightly sprayed with leather cleaner or saddle soap
  • For heavier soiling, work gently with a soft-bristled brush
  • Avoid excessive moisture, direct heat and direct sunlight
  • No harsh cleaners, solvents or alcohol-based products

Scars, wrinkles and tonal variation are inherent to genuine leather and are part of what tells you it is real.

Marble & stone
  • Dust once or twice a week with a soft, dry cloth
  • Clean periodically with warm water and a mild dish soap
  • Rinse with a clean damp cloth and dry immediately
  • Always use coasters and trivets — stone etches
  • Never use abrasive cleaners, acidic solutions or commercial dusting sprays

Veining and tone vary from slab to slab. No two stone tops are alike.

Upholstery & canvas
  • Vacuum regularly with upholstery and crevice attachments
  • For light cleaning, mix a quarter cup of mild soap into a gallon of lukewarm water
  • Let the solution sit briefly, rinse thoroughly, then air dry
  • For removable covers, mist lightly and work with a sponge or soft brush
  • Do not over-wet, and avoid harsh chemicals
Felt & wool
  • Vacuum as needed with an upholstery attachment
  • Spot clean by dabbing with a soft white cloth dampened with cool water
  • For stubborn stains, one part white vinegar to two parts water
  • Dab gently — never rub
  • No rotary brushes, and do not brush the fabric — it permanently damages the texture
Brass
  • Clean with a soft, dry or lightly damp cloth
  • Check and tighten hardware periodically
  • Use coasters and trivets against heat marks and water stains
  • Wipe spills immediately
  • No abrasive or oil-based cleaners

Brass develops a patina over time. If you prefer it bright, polish it; if you prefer it aged, leave it alone. Both are correct.

Glass & mirror
  • Use a cleaner made specifically for glass
  • Spray onto the cloth, never directly onto the surface
  • Wipe, then buff with a second dry microfiber cloth
  • No abrasive pads or harsh chemicals
35–55%

Humidity is the one that actually matters

Everything else on this page is about keeping a finish looking good. Humidity is about the wood itself. Solid hardwood takes on moisture in summer and gives it up in winter, and it expands and contracts as it does. Held between 35% and 55% relative humidity, that movement is small enough that you will never notice it. Let a house drop to 15% in January and tops can cup and joints can open.

A humidifier through the winter costs less than any repair. If your home runs dry, this is the one thing worth acting on.

SAFE RANGE 0%25%50% 75%100% 15% — January, no humidifier 70% — humid summer, no air conditioning
HOW A SOLID TOP MOVES The width expands and contracts — across the grain Length barely changes
If something goes wrong

Marks, rings and scratches

Most everyday damage on a catalyzed varnish finish is surface-level and fixable at home. Deeper damage we can talk through — send us a photo and we will tell you honestly whether it needs us or not.

White ringsMoisture trapped in the finish. Often lifts on its own over a few days as it dries out. Do not attack it with heat or solvents.
Light scratchesA touch-up kit blended to your piece handles most of these in minutes.
DentsWood compresses. Small dents are part of a table that gets used, and they are the reason people keep these for decades.
Anything deeperSend a photo. We built it, we know exactly what is on it, and we will tell you what it needs.

Why most marks are not as bad as they look

A white ring ← moisture sits here, in the finish The wood underneath is untouched. It usually clears on its own as it dries. A deep scratch ← through to the wood This one needs colour put back. A touch-up kit handles most of them.

Touch-up kit, blended to your piece

Matching stain and finish, mixed for the exact table we built you, so scratches and everyday wear disappear in minutes rather than becoming something you look at forever.

Order a touch-up kit Send us a photo